While this lovely grape can claim is roots in France, it has been wonderfully adopted by wine growers throughout the world. It has done particularly well in the New World vineyards of California and even more so in New Zealand (I love the gooseberry, grassiness, and incredible acidity of NZ Sauv Blanc). Yet like most things in life, the best Sauvignon Blanc is found closest to its origin. It is in the upper area of the Loire Valley in central France where these green grapes offer their purest, most unrestrained characteristics.
The Loire river, the longest in France, flows through the region, cutting deeply into the earth, eventually releasing itself into the cool Atlantic Ocean near the city of Nantes. The combination of the river and ocean help shape the climate that allows for such perfect wine-growing conditions.
Along the upper area of the Loire river, two towns in particular stand out for their exquisite production of Sauvignon Blanc - Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire. The latter is located in the appellation of Pouilly-Fumé, along with a few other towns (Saint-Andelain, Boisgibault, Tracy-sur-Loire).
The terroir (everything from the soil to the climate to the sun exposure that impacts the growing of the grapes) of Upper Loire, along with traditional Old World wine production methods, are what allow the Sauvignon Blanc grape to shine in this part of the world. Limestone, sandy soil, and chalk give the Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé appellations their delicious combination of tantalizing acidity, brilliant minerality, and crisp citrus fruit. Pouilly-Fumé wines also offer hints of flint or lead, a lovely complexity.
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With this combination of brilliant acidity and a more delicate palate, the best food pairings are grilled chicken, white fish, scallops, and raw oysters. For cheese, Pecorino (firm, sheep's cheese) and Chevre (soft, goat cheese) are superb. Other good food pairings include fennel, arugula, and lighter citrus dishes, using caution since too much acidity in the food will overpower the wine. These wines are also delicious on their own, especially on a warm summer evening served as an aperitif.
Another great aspect of Loire valley white wine is the price point. With $15-$20, you can pick up a great bottle, a claim few bottles of good California Chardonnay, White Bordeaux, or White Burgundy can say.
Some of my favorites are Domaine de Saint Pierre (Sancerre), Domaine Vacheron (Sancerre), Domaine Herve Seguin (Pouilly-Fumé), and Domaine del Bel Air (Pouilly-Fumé). See the links below to their websites.
À la vôtre!
-Jeff
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