Choucroute a l'Alsacienne (Alsatian Sauerkraut)

Rodern, Haut-Rhin, Alsace, France

Alsace is the smallest region of mainland France, slightly larger than the US state of Delaware.  Yet it has nearly two million people living there.  This is the same density as Maryland (5^th most dense state in the US).  Strasbourg and Mulhouse are the two primary cities in the region.

While the French control Alsace today, it has had a tumultuous history.  Situated along the Rhine river, the region is nestled in between Germany and France, as well as Switzerland.  Due to its geographic location, Alsace has traded hands many times.  In ancient times, the Celts, Gauls, and Romans all fought to control it.  By the Middle Ages, it was the Franks, the Holy Roman Empire, and the Kingdom of France.  And most recently, the French and Germans fought over Alsace in both World War I and World War II.

Today, this history is apparent in many aspects of the culture.  Perhaps it’s most palpable in the food of Alsace.  A blend of German and French influences come together to create many of the region’s most traditional dishes.  One of these I came across is called choucroute a l'Alsacienne, meaning Alsatian sauerkraut.

Choucroute a l'Alsacienne, served with boiled red potatoes & pumpernickel-rye bread

Similar to a hearty American stew or a rich Italian pasta dish, choucroute a l'Alsacienne is a great dish for colder weather.  The lovely combination of smoked pork (ham, sausage, bacon, etc.), diced onions & apples, and of course, the sauerkraut/choucroute, will surely fill you up nicely on a cold autumn or winter night.  After reading a slew of opinions on the subject, it’s recommended to serve the dish with slices of rye bread and boiled potatoes.

Like many French dishes, the roots of choucroute a l'Alsacienne are its economic value.  “Peasant food” offers a lot of great recipes, and this one is no exception.  Cabbage and cheaper cuts of pork (ham hocks, pork shoulder, etc.), and maybe an onion or apple, would be a great way to give your family a sound meal a couple hundred years ago.

In 2010, I recommend using whatever suits your tastes.  I used a 1 ½ lb. smoked, uncured ham, fully cooked, along with a bratwurst and an herb & pork sausage.  I also added a few slices of smoked bacon, cut into small pieces.  The key is buying high quality, authentic sauerkraut.  I prefer the stuff found in glass bottles or plastic bags (found in the refrigerated section of the supermarket).  If all you can find is canned sauerkraut, just make sure there’s not any vinegar added.  Vinegared cabbage is cole slaw, not sauerkraut.

The other critical ingredient is the right wine.  Find a dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer, preferably from Alsace.  Another great option is the Mosel wine region in Germany, which isn’t too far from Alsace.  Both of these regions offer some of the best Rieslings and Gewürztraminers in the world.  If buying German, look for the label, “Qualitätswein mit Prädikat” (quality wine with attributes).  And of course the best part is you can enjoy this wine with dinner!

Guten appetit!

Ingredients:

3 to 4 slices bacon, cut into small pieces

1 large onion, diced

2 stalks celery, diced

1 large apple (Braeburn or similar sweet apple), diced

32 oz. jar sauerkraut, partially drained

1 ½ to 2 lbs. smoked pork (ham, ham hocks, pork shoulder, etc.), cut into 2 or 3 large pieces

2 to 3 sausages of your choice (bratwurst, knockwurst, etc.), cut into bite-sized pieces

½ tsp juniper berries, crushed

2 tsp caraway seeds

1 bay leaf

1 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock

½ cup dry white wine (preferably dry Riesling/Gewürztraminer)

2 T. Olive oil

Salt & Pepper

*Sides – boiled potatoes and rye bread

Instructions:

1. Heat a large pot to medium, add oil.

2. Once hot, add onion, season with salt & pepper.

3. Let sauté for 5 minutes, then add bacon, stir.

4. Add celery, stir.

5. Sauté for another 5-10 minutes, until the onions soften and the bacon is cooked through.

6. Add apple, along with a little more salt & pepper, stir.  Sauté for 3-5 minutes, allowing the apple to cook slightly.

7. The mixture should be sticking slightly to the bottom of the pot (unless you’re using a non-stick pan, which is okay).

8. Add the wine, stir well, using a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom (this is called deglazing the pan).  Let simmer for 2 minutes.

9. Add the sauerkraut, stock, caraway seeds, juniper berries, bay leaf, and ground pepper, stir.

10. Place the pieces of smoked pork into the mixture, and scoop some it onto the meat.

11. Turn down the heat to low, and put the lid on the pot.  Let simmer (very gently) for about 3 hours.

12. After 3 hours, break up the pork chunks with a fork, and stir into the sauerkraut mixture.

13. At this point, you can let the dish sit on your stove until you’re ready to eat.  When that time comes, heat the pot to medium-low, add in the sausages. 

14. Boil your potatoes and prep your rye bread.

15. Serve & enjoy!

Comfort Food - Italian

Bolognese Sauce

Central Park, City of New York

Walking the streets of New York these first few days of October, I've noticed women wearing their trendy knee-high boots and warm sweaters.  Men are breaking out windbreakers, sweatshirts, and I've even spotted a couple knit caps.  My favorite is the local fruit guy, who must have grown up in a very warm part of the world.  In 60º F weather, he was wearing a full winter parka and a thick knit cap!

With chilly weather and football on every weekend, it means only one thing.  Rich, hearty Italian food is once again a perfect meal.  While I could eat lasagna and creamy pasta dishes year-round, they are so much better when you come in from outside and your cheeks are little cold, and you could use something to warm up.

One of my favorite go-to Italian dishes is a homemade Bolognese sauce.  Chunky tomatoes, sweet carrots, and crisp celery complimenting a hearty helping of beef, veal, or pork, along with subtle flavors of white wine and fresh herbs...it's hard to imagine anything more delicious.  

Like all recipes, this one starts off by finding the best ingredients.  I love canned whole San Marzano tomatoes.  Before adding to the pot, squeeze them by hand, crushing into various sizes.  This adds a little more interesting texture than pureed or crushed tomatoes.  


The celery, carrots, and onion should be fresh, but this is also a great recipe for using up scraps in the bottom of your fridge.  Little bits of onion or a few sad looking stalks of celery will be transformed into delicious food after cooking in the pot for a couple hours.  


For the wine in the recipe, use a dry white wine (Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, etc.), which can be from some old bottle that you forgot about entirely.  Ooh...and don't forget to find some quality pasta.  If you have time (and the ambition), fresh pasta is the best.  

Zinfandel vines in California

For a wine pairing, I recommend a full-bodied Zinfandel.  The best Zin I've had has come from California.  Specifically, the Zin coming out of Leonesse Cellars in Temecula has greatly impressed me.  Paso Robles, Lodi, and St. Helena (Napa) are other areas in California with some great Zinfandel.  The key for the wine is to pick something that can handle the acidity of the tomatoes.  Think of the tomato as a mountain and the proper wine as a 4x4 truck.  A creamy Chardonnay or a delicate Pinot Noir would be like a Prius.  They just won't cut it.


Anyway, take your time with the recipe.  It takes a while to prep and cook, and you don't want to rush the recipe.  I love cooking it during the day on Sunday, watching football while the delicious aromas from the pot fill the whole apartment.  Serve with fresh bread and olive oil, and don't forget the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Buon appetito!

Ingredients:

1/2 T. unsalted butter

1/2 T. extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 medium carrot, finely diced

1 small to medium onion, finely diced

1 celery rib, finely diced

1 lbs coarsely ground beef, pork, or veal (or more, depending on how meaty you like your sauce)

1 T. tomato paste

1/2 cup dry white wine

One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, hand-crushed, juices reserved

3/4 cup stock

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

2 T chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 T chopped basil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving

Instructions:

1. In a large sauté pan, melt the butter in the oil.

2. Add the onion for 2 minutes, then add carrot & celery.  Cook until the onion is soft, about 5-10 minutes.

3. Add garlic, stir, and let cook another 30 seconds.

4. Add the ground beef, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, and cook until no pink remains, about 8 minutes.

5. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes.

6. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until reduced by half, about 5-10 minutes.

7. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the stock, nutmeg and 1 tablespoon each of the parsley and basil and bring to a boil.

8. Season with salt and pepper and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 1 1/2 hours.

9. Cook pasta of choice (I use linguine and angel hair pastas).

10. When pasta is nearly done, add remaining 1 tablespoons of parsley and 1 tablespoon of basil into the meat sauce.

11. Season the sauce with salt and pepper, and serve over pasta.

12. Serve with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Oysters, Oysters, Oysters

Kumamoto and Hama Hama oysters from Washington State

Oysters.  For many people, this word brings to mind slimy, fishy 'things,' and they wonder, "Why on Earth would anyone eat them?"  Irishman Jonathan Swift must have empathized, with his somewhat famous line, "He was a bold man that first ate an oyster."

Bluepoints from Long Island Sound

While I admit my first experience as a teenager with oysters was a bit nauseating, I have grown very fond of oysters over the last few years.  Maybe it's the novelty of eating something raw, something untainted by the process of cooking.  Or maybe it is the briny, delicate flavor of the oyster itself.  It might also be the fact that every oyster has its own unique history, coming from the cold waters of New Brunswick, Washington State, or New Zealand (much like terroir in wine).  

Oysters are incredibly simple creatures, living on our planet for hundreds of millions of years.  They are filter feeders, eating plankton and other small food particles found in the ocean.  They're very efficient, filtering as much as 30 gallons of water per day!  And it's not just people that find them delicious.  Crabs, birds, and starfish enjoy eating oysters as well.

As for oysters as a culinary dish, people have been dining on these crustaceans since at least Roman times.  Today, the French are known as some of the more common connoisseurs of oysters.  But it's a popular dish around the world.

Oysters with a glass of Oregon Pinot Gris

For me, I prefer to buy a half dozen oysters from the Lobster Place in Chelsea Market, Citarella on the Upper West Side, or even at  my local Whole Foods.  Then I come home, pop a bottle of Sancerre, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, or Pinot Gris.  I shuck the oysters myself (part of the experience), but you can also request the store to do it for you, often at no additional cost.  Shred some fresh horseradish, and grab a few slices of lemon.  Bon appétit!

In New York and Philadelphia, I commonly purchased oysters for about $1.00 to $1.50 per oyster.  Sometimes, you have to buy a half dozen or dozen, depending on the store.  Another great option, if you can find it, is an oyster bar.  There are a few in NYC, and while they're not cheap, you have a great selection of oysters from around the country (if not the world).  My favorite restaurant spot is in SoHo, at a restaurant called Aquagrill.  They offer a couple dozen varieties or more everyday, along with a solid wine list.

If you're an oyster-lover, enjoy!  

If not, try one sometime when you're feeling adventurous.  It's fun and delicious!

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