Melitzanosalata (Greek Eggplant Salad)

After returning a few days ago from an unforgettable sailing trip in the Greek Isles, I have been craving some classic Greek snacks.  Greece is a beautiful country, with thousands of tiny islands and an array of delectable food.  In the summer, the weather is seemingly always sunny and a bit hot, ideal for sunning yourself and swimming in the Mediterranean.

Sérifos, Greece

Melitzanosalata and pita bread

One of my favorite dishes from the trip was Greek eggplant salad, known as melitzanosalata.  Pureed eggplant mixed with fresh garlic, lemon juice, parsley, and of course, olive oil, was a delicious bite that I must have enjoyed a dozen times over the ten days I was in the country.  

What was fascinating about this dish in Greece was how much it varied from island to island, or sometimes even restaurant to restaurant.  Sometimes it would be incredibly smoky, other times not at all.  Some would add something creamy (maybe yogurt), others would add extra garlic.

And, of course you can’t enjoy melitzanosalata without pita bread.

During my search for a great recipe, I also read a little about the variations of melitzanosalata in other parts of the world.  Tahini seems to be a common theme outside of Greece, with the Turks and Armenians adding it to their versions.  The Hungarians and Romanians toss in chopped onions and use sunflower oil in place of olive oil.  Perhaps the most interesting variation is found in Israel, where they use mayonnaise!

A couple of the best recipes and articles came from fellow bloggers, specifically Whipped (Whipped - Melitzanosalata Recipe) and The Hummus Blog (The Hummus Blog - Roasting an Eggplant).  Make sure to read The Hummus Blog article, as it gives great instructions on how to roast an eggplant (critical for the smokiness of this recipe).  And to give credit, my melitzanosalata recipe is largely based on the link above from Whipped. 

As I mentioned, the pita bread is also important for this Greek snack.  I have not made pita bread before, but I figured it’s a very simple bread dating back to antiquity.  A little side trivia, pita means “bread” in Aramaic (the language from the time of Jesus).  So…with the rich history behind this bread, I thought it couldn’t be that hard to make.  And it’s not.  Only six ingredients, one of which is water, are required to make pita bread.  It only needs to rise for 30 minutes, and then it cooks in less than 10 minutes.  Anyone can make this.

Just as with anything that is homemade from fresh, high-quality ingredients, the melitzanosalata and pita bread turned out deliciously.  Serve as a snack or as an appetizer before enjoying a Greek salad, moussaka, pastitso, or kebabs.

Cheers!

Melitzanosalata – Greek Eggplant Dip

Ingredients:

1 large eggplant

1 T. fresh lemon juice

1 clove garlic, minced

2 T. olive oil

2 T. Italian parsley, chopped

½ tsp. smoked paprika

Salt & pepper

Instructions:

1. Roast eggplant over open flame on your gas stove (see The Hummus Blog article), or slice in half and roast in the oven at 400º F until soft, about 30-40 minutes

2. Remove the skin from the eggplant, and cut into small pieces

3. In batches, combine eggplant pieces and all other ingredients into a food processor

4. Puree until smooth

5. Mix batches together

6. Taste for salt & pepper

7. Chill in the refrigerator

8. Serve with pita bread

Pita Bread

Ingredients:

2 ½ cups flour (I use King Arthur’s organic whole wheat flour*)

2 tsp salt

1 T. sugar

1 packet active dry yeast (about 2 tsp)

2 T. olive oil

1 cup warm water

Extra olive oil, salt, & pepper for basting mixture

*http://www.kingarthurflour.com/shop/items/king-arthur-100-organic-whole-wheat-flour-5-lb

Instructions:

1. Mix dry ingredients together (flour, salt, sugar, and yeast)

2. Mix oil and water in a different bowl

3. Combine ingredients, stirring with a spoon and eventually moving to your hands once it’s starting to mix well

4. Knead the dough for 4-6 minutes

5. Cut the dough, using a scraper, into eight equal pieces

6. Roll into balls and let rise for 30 minutes under a damp cloth

7. Preheat oven to 500º F

8. Roll raised balls into circles, about ¼” thick

9. Place onto pieces of tinfoil

10. Bake for 1-2 minutes, then brush a dash of the basting mixture onto the top of the bread

11. Bake for an additional 3-4 minutes, until cooked through

12. Let cool before serving

Cashew Chicken

One of my favorite American-style Chinese dishes is Cashew Chicken.  A quick sauté of fresh veggies, chunks of meaty chicken, salty cashews, and piercing chili spice makes this meal ideal for impressing your guests.

The best thing about Asian stir-fry recipes is that you can choose any vegetables you have in the kitchen.  Leftover onion?  Throw it in!  Toss in your half-used peppers, mushrooms, or even things such as carrots and celery to the wok.  It's perfect for cleaning out the fridge.

Looking at the origins of my recipe, it's most closely related to the Sichuan dish, Kung Pao chicken.  Based on my research, cashews and peanuts are commonly used in the more authentic recipes (I use cashews because they're a little more indulgent).  The only thing missing from mine is the Sichuan peppercorns (gōng bǎo jī dīng).  These citrus-tasting, mouth-numbing "peppercorns" are a unique fruit of a plant that is neither a chili nor a peppercorn.  Allegedly, these little red spices prepare your palate to better experience the heat of chili peppers.  True or not, you'll definitely notice them in the dish.  If you decide to use them, make sure to toast them slightly (1 to 2 minutes) and grind to a powder.  And only use a small amount.  They easily overpower a dish.

When cooking tantalizing Asian stir-fry dishes, the critical tools are a heavy, well-crafted wok and a gas stove.  Electric stoves will get the job done, but their inability to maintain their heat source (electric stoves typically have heating cycles, heating the surface to the desired temperature and then turning off, repeating as needed) can ruin the efficacy of your wok-style cooking.  The stir-fry is all about flash-frying ingredients for only a minute or two.  If you add your cold chicken to a wok that just went into an "off" cycle on your electric stove, you'll notice the sizzle of your wok stops and only continues once the heating cycle returns the wok to the original hot temperature.

Unfortunately, if you have an electric stove, there's not much you can do about it in the short-term.  While it's not ideal, these stoves are still plenty capable of cooking up a wonderful stir-fry.  I cooked on an electric stove for years.  So don't be too discouraged.  Just something to remember when buying your next stove or signing the lease of a future apartment.  Gas is always better!

Back to the cashew chicken dish.  After gathering your wok and ingredients, the next critical step is prepping EVERYTHING before you start cooking.  A stir-fry, as mentioned, is an incredibly fast recipe.  You won't have time to mince the garlic or chop your onion partway into it.  I like to place all the prepped ingredients in little bowls and dishes, which allows you to toss in what you need at each step of the process.  But you could also leave your diced veggies on a cutting board or place them on a plate.  Another tip is to combine ingredients into each step of the process.  So if you're adding the celery and onion to the wok at the same time, you can mix these two ingredients in the same bowl.

Okay...so you have everything ready to go.  Next, heat your wok to very hot.  When you add the peanut oil, it should be almost smoking.  A very hot wok is critical to a successful stir-fry.  Next, just follow the recipe below and serve with Jasmine rice.  White rice is traditional, but I have been using brown for a couple years now due to its health benefits.


Enjoy!


Cashew Chicken Recipe (serves 4 people)

Ingredients:

¼ cup Peanut Oil

1 ½ lbs chicken breast, cut into 1” pieces

12 dried red chilies

5 slices of fresh ginger, peeled

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 medium onion, sliced

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 can sliced water chestnuts

¼ cup cashews, roasted

3 scallions, cut into 1” pieces (green parts) and diced (white parts)

   Marinade: 1 T. corn starch, 2 tsp soy sauce, 1 T. sherry, 1 tsp peanut oil

   Sauce: 3 T. light soy sauce, 2 tsp black vinegar, 1 T. dark soy sauce, ½ cup water,

                           2 tsp sugar, 2 tsp corn starch

Prepared white or brown Jasmine rice

Directions:

1. Marinate chicken for 30 to 60 minutes in the refrigerator

2. Heat work, add 1 T. of vegetable oil until very hot

3. Add chicken, stir well, cook about 2/3 of the way through; remove from wok

4. Clean out wok, add 2 T. of vegetable oil, heat again until very hot

5. Add chilies, garlic, and ginger; sauté for 30 seconds

6. Add onion and celery; sauté for 3-5 minutes, until onions begin to soften

7. Return the chicken to the wok, stir.  Sauté for 1-2 minutes

8. Add cashews and chestnuts, stir

9. Add scallions and sauce, stir

10. Serve over steamed rice

Comfort Food

Poulet Rôti (Roast Chicken)

Roast chicken is one of my all-time favorite comfort foods.  From that moment you can begin to smell the wonderful aromas coming out of the oven...to that final succulent bite of juicy, herb-flavored meat...it’s the cornerstone of a classic meal.  Add in a few sides, such as roasted rosemary potatoes, homemade pecan & cranberry stuffing, and fresh cranberry sauce, and you’re in for a real treat.

To start, let’s begin with the chicken itself.  First, you need to find a high-quality, properly raised whole chicken.  Farmers markets in New York often sell humanely raised chicken (i.e. true free-range, pastured birds), but another great option is a local Community Sponsored Agriculture (CSA).  Check out Local Harvest’s CSA website to search for a CSA near you (http://www.localharvest.org/csa/). 

Greenmarket Farmers Market - Union Square, NY, NY

This afternoon, I found a great 3 ½ lb. chicken at a NY farmer’s market, from Grazin Angus Acres (http://www.grazinangusacres.com/), a farm in Ghent, New York (about 3 hours north of the City of New York, just south of Albany).  An impressive organization, the farm is committed to raising cattle and chickens with a sense of humanity and understanding, which is the opposite of the horrible farm conditions of large companies (i.e. Perdue, Tyson, etc.).  Also, beyond the treatment of animals, the health and flavor of these cattle and birds is immensely better than the junk coming out of large corporations.  Think of it as fresh squeezed orange juice instead of Minute Maid. 

Grazin Angus Acres - Ghent, NY (upstate New York)

If you can’t find a CSA or farmers market near you, stores such as Whole Foods (WFM) also offer better alternatives to poorly raised Perdue and Tyson chickens.  Just note, even birds from WFM will not be the same as those found at farmers markets, which are straight from the farm.  On a side note, as Michael Pollan (http://michaelpollan.com/) has emphasized, it's important to get to know where your food is coming from.  Farmers markets and visits to the actual farms are great ways to take this step.  How else will we be responsible consumers if do not know the process, the hard work that our farmers perform day in and day out?

Brining Ingredients (Salt, Sugar, Herbs, Pepper)

Back to the meal...after purchasing your chicken, the next step is to brine it.  A good brine is the secret to a juicy, delicious roast chicken.  Make sure that your brining solution is always cold, as anything above 
40º F could result in spoilage.  If you’re concerned, add a few ice cubes to bring down the temperature of the brine.  Just don’t add too many, which will dilute the solution.  Brine the chicken for 3-5 hours.  I have read that another option is to remove the chicken after brining, rinse & dry thoroughly, and then let it sit on a plate in your fridge overnight.  This supposedly dries it out enough to give you wonderfully crispy skin when you roast it (but I haven’t tried this yet).

Dried cranberries and pecans, ready for the stuffing

For the stuffing, make sure you cook it far enough in advance so that it can cool down before you stuff your bird.  You don’t want to take 150º F stuffing and push it into the cold chicken.  I personally love the pecan-cranberry stuffing, which I provided below, but any favorite stuffing would do.  I would highly recommend a homemade stuffing though rather than the processed version (i.e. Stove Top).  It’s healthier, more delicious, and lower in sodium. 

When your chicken is roasting, baste it with a little honey butter mixture for more delicious skin.  Also, you can roast your potatoes at the same time if you’d like, or make mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce (http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/jellied-cranberry-sauce-with-fuji-apple), or any other sides that your heart desires.

For wine, I would suggest a French Sauvignon Blanc (http://dailydishchef.blogspot.com/2010/08/vin-de-la-journee-wine-of-day_10.html), a Torrontés from Argentina, or maybe a lighter-bodied red, such as an Oregon Pinot Noir or a French Burgundy.  I also love a dry Riesling from Alsace and Albariño from Spain to pair with the roast chicken.

Cheers!


Ingredient List (one 3-4 lb. chicken serves 4 people, if served w/sides):

Brining Recipe

3 to 4 lb. whole chicken 1 gallon cold water

¾ cup kosher salt

½ cup sugar

¼ cup soy sauce

Handful of fresh herbs (thyme, oregano, rosemary, sage, etc.)

1 T. black peppercorns
Paprika & freshly ground pepper, for sprinkling over chicken before roasting
Optional: 2 T. butter and 1 T. honey, for basting chicken

1. In a large pot or bowl (big enough to fit brining solution and chicken), mix water and all other ingredients. 

2. Stir very well, ensuring that all the salt and sugar dissolve in the water.

3. Rinse chicken, remove neck, liver, and any other innards.

4. Gently place chicken into the brining solution, making sure it is fully covered.  If you have to, use a small plate or other object to keep the chicken submerged.

5. Brine for 3-5 hours in the refrigerator, making sure the solution is 40º F or cooler.

6. Remove the chicken, rinse with cold water, and thoroughly dry with a thin towel.

7. Preheat oven to 350º F.

8. Place the chicken (breast-side up) in an oven-safe roasting pan, and stuff the cavity of the chicken with cooled stuffing.

9. Tie the legs together with twine, dust with paprika and some fresh pepper.

10. Put the chicken in the oven, baking for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until chicken juices run clear when pierced with a toothpick (or internal temperature of the breast is 165º F).

Optional: If you want to add a little indulgence, mix melted butter and honey in a small dish.  After the chicken has been roasting for 30 minutes, begin basting it with the honey butter mixture every 10-15 minutes, until it’s done.

Pecan Cranberry Stuffing Recipe

4 cups of bread cut into ½” cubes

1 cup vegetable or chicken stock

½ medium onion, diced

2 stalks of celery, diced

1 large carrot, diced

½ cup apple, diced

¼ cup dried cranberries

¼ pecans, lightly crushed

1 T. dried sage

½ tsp dried thyme

½ tsp dried rosemary

½ tsp dried oregano

½ tsp onion powder

Dash of garlic powder

½ tsp pepper

1 tsp salt (more to taste)

2 T. Olive oil

1 T. butter

1. In a large pot, turn heat to medium

2. Add olive oil; once hot, add onions

3. Sauté for 3 minutes, then add celery and carrots

4. Sauté for 7-10 minutes, until the veggies begin to soften

5. Add apple, stir, and sauté for another 3 minutes

6. Add butter, the spices, pecans, and cranberries, stir

7. Add stock and bread, mix thoroughly

8. Turn off heat, let sit for 5-10 minutes before using

Vin de la Journée (Wine of the Day)

Sauvignon Blanc

While this lovely grape can claim is roots in France, it has been wonderfully adopted by wine growers throughout the world. It has done particularly well in the New World vineyards of California and even more so in New Zealand (I love the gooseberry, grassiness, and incredible acidity of NZ Sauv Blanc). Yet like most things in life, the best Sauvignon Blanc is found closest to its origin. It is in the upper area of the Loire Valley in central France where these green grapes offer their purest, most unrestrained characteristics.

The Loire river, the longest in France, flows through the region, cutting deeply into the earth, eventually releasing itself into the cool Atlantic Ocean near the city of Nantes. The combination of the river and ocean help shape the climate that allows for such perfect wine-growing conditions.

Along the upper area of the Loire river, two towns in particular stand out for their exquisite production of Sauvignon Blanc - Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire. The latter is located in the appellation of Pouilly-Fumé, along with a few other towns (Saint-Andelain, Boisgibault, Tracy-sur-Loire).

The terroir (everything from the soil to the climate to the sun exposure that impacts the growing of the grapes) of Upper Loire, along with traditional Old World wine production methods, are what allow the Sauvignon Blanc grape to shine in this part of the world. Limestone, sandy soil, and chalk give the Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé appellations their delicious combination of tantalizing acidity, brilliant minerality, and crisp citrus fruit. Pouilly-Fumé wines also offer hints of flint or lead, a lovely complexity.

With this combination of brilliant acidity and a more delicate palate, the best food pairings are grilled chicken, white fish, scallops, and raw oysters. For cheese, Pecorino (firm, sheep's cheese) and Chevre (soft, goat cheese) are superb. Other good food pairings include fennel, arugula, and lighter citrus dishes, using caution since too much acidity in the food will overpower the wine. These wines are also delicious on their own, especially on a warm summer evening served as an aperitif.

Another great aspect of Loire valley white wine is the price point. With $15-$20, you can pick up a great bottle, a claim few bottles of good California Chardonnay, White Bordeaux, or White Burgundy can say.

Some of my favorites are Domaine de Saint Pierre (Sancerre), Domaine Vacheron (Sancerre), Domaine Herve Seguin (Pouilly-Fumé), and Domaine del Bel Air (Pouilly-Fumé).  See the links below to their websites.

À la vôtre!

-Jeff

Winery Links:

http://www.domainedesaintpierre.com/english/index.html

http://www.jondavidwine.com/PDF/Domaine%20Vacheron%20Info%20Sheet.pdf
http://www.domaineseguin.com/
http://www.bel-air-pouilly.com/belair-pouilly-fume-the-domaine-9.html

Comida Mexicana

La Noche de Chorizo (The Night of Chorizo)
Skimming through a recent issue of F&W, Joe Hargrave's (chef of Tacolicious http://tacolicioussf.com/about) fresh chorizo and potato taco recipe caught my eye. Chorizo, a delicious combination of garlic, chili pepper, and cumin, not to mention the fatty indulgence that saturates every bite, is the perfect ingredient to spice up your tacos.

The first secret to amazing chorizo tacos is fresh, high-quality chorizo. Good delis and higher-end grocery stores, such as Whole Foods, typically carry fresh chorizo. And it's cheap too, at $4-$6 per pound.

The second secret, is a delicious, tangy, spicy fruit salsa. I chose this time around to use some amazing New Jersey peaches, from a farmer's market at Rockefeller Center. Juicy, sweet...perfect for my salsa.

Mixed with chopped cilantro, Vidalia onion, jalapeños, sea salt, and a dash of lime juice, it's a perfect compliment to the savory, deliciously oily chorizo mixture. If you can't find good peaches, a mango-avocado salsa or a strawberry-avocado salsa would be other options. Just sub the mango or strawberries for the peaches, and skip the lime juice.

Okay...so you have your chorizo and fruit salsa ingredients. The other key things you need are corn (not flour) tortillas, baby red potatoes (although, other potatoes would work too), shredded cheddar cheese, and some chopped avocados. Sour cream is also something you could add, if you want a more creamy flavor for your taco compilation.

Ingredient List [to serve 4 people]:

Peach Salsa:

4 peaches, pitted and diced

1 jalapeño, finely diced

1/4 cup Vidalia onion, diced

1/4 cup cilantro, finely diced

Juice from 1/4 to 1/2 lime (to taste)

1/4 tsp ground sea salt (to taste)

Taco Meat:

3/4 to 1 lb. fresh chorizo, casings removed, and meat broken into small pieces

1/2 cup red onion, diced

1 medium green pepper, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 tsp smoked Spanish paprika (or regular paprika)

1/2 tsp Ancho chili powder

1/2 tsp Chipotle chili powder

2 T. olive oil

sea salt & black pepper, to taste

Potatoes:

1 lb. baby red potatoes, cut into 1/2" pieces

1 tsp smoked Spanish paprika (or regular paprika)

1 tsp Ancho chili powder

1 tsp Chipotle chili powder

1/2 tsp oregano

1/2 tsp ground sea salt

2 T. olive oil

Other:

12-16 corn taco-sized tortillas

1/2 lb. cheddar cheese, shredded

1-2 avocados, diced

Sour cream (optional)

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 F

2. In an oven-safe baking pan, mix potatoes with other potato ingredients (spices, oil, salt)

3. Bake in oven for 45-60 minutes, or until slightly crispy (avoid stirring too often)

4. While the potatoes are baking, you can make your salsa, and cook the taco meat mixture

5. For the salsa, simply mix all ingredients together in a large serving bowl

6. For the meat mixture, begin by heating a large pan to medium heat

7. Add oil

8. Once hot, add onions and peppers, along with a little salt & pepper

9. Stir every 2-3 minutes, letting sauté for about 10 minutes, or until veggies are softened

10. Add chorizo meat, stir well, and add the spices; stir well

11. Let sauté for 10-15 minutes, or until the chorizo is cooked through

12. Add garlic, stir, let sauté for 1 minute

13. Serve with warmed tortillas, potatoes, and condiments (avocado, cheese, sour cream)

Enjoy the combination of spicy chorizo and tangy fruit salsa, all wrapped up nicely in a warm corn tortilla. Some rice and beans, fresh corn on the cob, and guacamole would be great additions to this dinner.

I served a dry Riesling from New York's Finger Lakes region (specifically, the producer was Treleaven http://www.treleavenwines.com/). This Riesling's acidity paired nicely with the spicy tacos. But I was also tempted to make some fresh margaritas or maybe caipirinhas. Anything with crisp acidity to stand up to the smoky paprika and chili powders, and spice from the jalapeños and chorizo.

This is my first 'daily dish.' I hope you enjoy this meal as much as I did! More delicious dishes to follow soon...

-Jeff